Spencer gives it a try....
Spencer has strong fingers. He works and trains at the Beta Bouldering Gym in Flag, and he gives all us weak fingered humans a delightful glimpse to what is possible in the vertical. He boulders, yes. He also ties in for stellar sport pitches with a sharp determination. Above is Spencer on a new picturesque, technical streaked limestone sport route recently established by John Gould. Peeling off, and pulling back on, making all the moves, figuring it out one bolt at a time, landed him at the chains. Now we know route goes.
I have to admit, I love the faces Gould chooses and bolts.
As I scope the cliffs, FA window-shopping, I tend to shop for dihedrals and featured, nimble, vertical faces. This new route is blank, precise, uber powerful with big moves.
I tried it on TR.
Getting past the second, third and fourth bolts were doozers. I can officially say this is not my route of choice. One, there's no chocolate at the top presently, and two, the ditch provides many opportunities for window shoppers who want to stop, shop and buy. This route is hard.
Spencer linked this blank face systematically and quickly. Photographing the progress was a joy. The first ascent process of figuring out moves and patching sequences together always strikes a fire under my ass. Pure want to send my projects there, and everywhere, immediately takes over the brain. It really drives me to become more focused to figure out the movement, get to the anchors, and move on to the next unknown adventure an FA provides.
It has been one year and eight months since I fell, twisted 2 vertebrates, smashed my left rib cage and did a good number to my hip. I have not felt these 'go for it' emotions towards climbing, or the drive to send since I fell. As I am slowly welcoming this feeling back into my life has been hard, rough and challenging. I am physically healed (90%), I able to go for it, and take falls, but working through that mental fear has been one of the greater challenges I have re-faced. Watching Gould and Spencer crush through these moves and embrace the challenges of the unknown has made the 'go for it' mode in me, jump leaps and bounds.
I am so grateful.